This Hatted Fine Diner In The Shadow Of Gariwerd Needs To Be On Your Bucket List

The first time I went to the Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld was for my wedding anniversary. It’s a treat—a once in a blue moon situation—and here’s why. The hotel isn’t just a hotel, or a restaurant, it’s a whole very special thing. The accommodation, Wickens and The Parker St Project are all thoughtful manifestations of incredible local produce, hospitality, excellent cuisine and international wine in one neat package. Then, on your doorstep is the Gariwerd (Grampians) National Park. It brings a whole new meaning to eat, stay, play—one we’re a little more around. 

There’s a few ways you can enjoy your sojourn here, as there’s a bit on, but if you’re like me and like to have things planned out, this is how I’d go about it:

Stay: Royal Mail Hotel or Mount Sturgeon Cottages & Homestead

Unwind in understated luxury at the former motel, now upmarket retreat close to the action at the restaurants, wine cellar and garden tour with mountain views and a pool for those toastier summer days. Or, opt to stay out on a 30-acre retreat at one of four luxe historic, bluestone cottages, complete with wooly blankets, exposed beams and a the perfect little fireplace. The key here is to book at least two nights, so you’re able to experience all there is on offer.

Dine: Wickens & The Parker St Project:

I opted for dinner at The Parker St Project, arriving on a Friday night. The more casual affair (only the setting, not the food) was a great warm-up to lunch on Saturday. It gives you a feel for the space and it’s an amuse bouche to the main course at Wickens. It will also give you plenty of time to arrive, settle in, and enjoy a wine cellar tour, wildlife walk or garden tour depending on your schedule. Wickens at lunch the following day was truly superb, the views out over the mountains and native bush are the perfect setting to enjoy locally sourced, haute cuisine. Executive Chef Robin Wickens has been at the helm for more than 10 years now, and he has their offerings dialed in. Look forward to seasonal canapes served on a 3D model of their famous 1.2ha kitchen garden (the largest working restaurant kitchen garden in Australia), delicately cooked seafood sourced from Port Fairy and local beef, lamb or roo. Desserts are similarly inspiring with their classic celery parfait, an ode to their kitchen garden and resembling, remarkably, a celery stalk, to ice cream made from literally every and anything in the aforementioned garden. I hear wasabi is coming up and I’ll be heading back for that. Match your 12ish-course (I lost count) degustation with a wine pairing from their cellar which has won more awards than Beyoncé, then unwind with some cocktails or head back over to Parker St to kick on a little if your belly allows.

Do: Bushwalking, Kitchen Garden, Wildlife Walk, Wine Cellar Tour & More

So, there’s a lot on here. Outside of dining at the Royal Mail Hotel the world is your oyster. You can tackle hundreds of kilometres of bushwalks, or some nice easy ones that take you up to viewpoints from town, I recommend Mount Sturgeon or The Piccaninny to whet your appetite. They’re under 5kms each and are easy enough to do on a full belly, just make sure you take water and appropriate gear. Outside of that a wine tasting in the cellar is a must. Their very talented sommeliers have started importing their own European wines and they come in at an excellent price, like a $50 Bordeaux you’ll be taking home with you. They’ve got around 4200 bottles in there, so you’re sure to find a gem you like. Outside of that you can spy quolls or fat-tailed dunnarts on their wildlife walk, explore the garden with a chef and taste literally everything.

Everything Else:

No visit to Dunkeld would be complete without a stop off at Dunkeld Old Bakery for a pie, grab a coffee from Franklin & Friends, the coffee caravan in town and load up on charcuterie opposite at the Grampians Providore. There’s a few other dining options in town as well like Cafe 109 Bar & Grill, where an icy cold pot in the beer garden is almost mandatory or the Little Brick House Cafe, if you’re still hungry after your in-room breakfast.

Originally purchased as a bluestone inn by the local Myers family, who also own  Dunkeld Pastoral Co., Royal Mail Hotel has come a long way from its humble roots—especially since Robin Wickens took the helm at their restaurant. Since then, his eponymous restaurant Wickens has been a staple in Victoria’s, and Australia’s, destination dining scene since. The degustation starts at $300, with wine pairing from $265 and a non-alcoholic match at $120. Stay and dine packages mid-week start from $1,470 for two nights, for two people and up to $2010 for cottages with transfers. Book your experience here.