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While I relish residing in Plymouth, I equally cherish the opportunity to regularly escape the city’s hustle and bustle, immersing myself in woodland and birdsong. Recently, I discovered a haven away from urban life – a quintessential spot boasting a handful of thriving independent shops, coupled with splendid walks and picturesque scenery.
Being a Plymouth resident, I’m spoilt for choice when it comes to seeking refuge from the city’s concrete and cobbles. The South West Coast Path, stunning beaches or secluded coves, along with numerous quaint towns and villages, are all within easy reach – either in Devon or neighbouring Cornwall.
On a recent excursion, I visited a village perched on Plymouth’s outskirts, an underappreciated jewel of a place – and it’s just 30 minutes from the Cornish border.
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Yelverton, specifically the area around Yelverton Roundabout, is conveniently accessible (I journeyed there by bus), offering a bustling array of shops and breathtaking countryside vistas in every direction.
This cherished village nestles on the city’s periphery. The journey was delightful, traversing through Plymouth before abruptly leaving the urban landscape behind, supplanted by Roborough Down.
After navigating through the heath, ablaze with gorse and speckled with Dartmoor ponies, you encounter the Yelverton Roundabout – a location so beloved it has its own Facebook page with over 7,000 followers, reports Plymouth Live.
Having spent several hours there, I now understand its popularity. Despite the encroachment of housing developments over the years, Yelverton village has managed to preserve its traditional village ambience.
The locals proved welcoming, while the independent retailers and enterprises offer something distinctive, boasting a proper butcher’s, deli, café, gift shop, and more besides. Even the Post Office is packed with practical and intriguing goods.
There’s also a traditional red telephone box standing proud at Yelverton Roundabout, directly across from the picturesque church on the green.
My initial stop was the Dartmoor Bakery, a brief stroll from the roundabout towards Leg O Mutton Corner on Roborough Down.
I sampled a savoury swirl filled with honey-garlic roasted tomatoes and brie, which proved utterly delightful. I enjoyed it while seated on a bench that was “erected in 1968” by the Yelverton District Residents Association, in “memory of Winston Churchill”.
Afterwards, I made my way to the shops and green space adjacent to the roundabout, where I chatted with three residents: Belinda Gardiner and married couple Ian and Liz Marshall.
Ian remarked there’s a “thriving set of shops” around Yelverton Roundabout and while they’ve “changed over the years”, they remain “really well used”.
The trio of residents observed that broadly speaking, since the 1980s, the locality has altered “very little”, though there are “more cars” and a “few more surrounding houses”.
“We’ve also lost two pubs”, Ian noted, “the Leg O Mutton pub and the Devon Tors hotel are gone, but we still have The Rock Inn which is great and well used”.
The three residents praised it as a marvellous place to call home, boasting abundant wildlife including owls and bats, excellent walking and cycling paths, alongside “a reliable bus route” connecting passengers to Plymouth or Tavistock every 20 minutes.
Next, I visited Hearn’s Dartmoor Butchery and Meatbox, a substantial independent establishment stocked with numerous locally sourced meats.
Behind the counter, a staff member was preparing some delicious-looking pasties, and I was particularly impressed by the vegetable stall within the premises.
I chatted with proprietor Richard Hearn, 40, who has worked as a butcher for more than two decades. He’s also a devoted local and “sixth-generation” farmer’s son.
Richard shared: “I love it, the customers, the trade, I wouldn’t do anything else, it’s what I know. We push the local side of things, purchasing a lot of the meat from a farm in Meavy.
“I first worked here aged 22, then eventually started it up as my own business, the customers are fab, friendly and smiley – and it’s a slower pace of life here than Plymouth.”
The area around Hearn’s Dartmoor Butchery features equally flourishing enterprises, including the highly rated gift emporium, Cards and Moor, which patrons describe as a “beautiful shop full of treasures”.
I dropped by for a browse, and it’s certainly brimming with attractive gifts, greeting cards and some delightful Easter offerings. I’ll certainly remember these Yelverton establishments when searching for birthday presents or other gifts.
Residents informed me that this thriving collection of shops is “getting busier”, and everyone I encountered was courteous and welcoming, with the area full of activity.
Another excellent establishment, The Larder Yelverton, is essential viewing for anyone visiting, offering distinctive cheeses, Cornish-made pottery, along with something else made in Cornwall that I believe most Cornish folk will love.
It’s an unusual chocolate bar infused with locally-cherished furzey, or gorse flowers, as it is commonly known.
Steeped in folklore, gorse is linked to the sun, love and general positivity, with roots in Celtic heritage and magic. I purchased a bar of this spiritual chocolate – and can confirm it’s delightful, it’s produced in Falmouth by a company called Chocolarder.
Henry Smith, 46, co-owns The Larder Yelverton, the delicatessen which launched in September 2020, and the distinctive shop has proved popular since, with its cheese range particularly well-received by residents and tourists alike.
Henry explained: “It’s a nice area to live and work in, it’s the people, and it’s so great to see the community supporting all the shops here.”
He continued: “We have a lot of regulars along with walkers, cyclists, visitors and people on holiday – we even had a celebrity visit the shop yesterday.”
He added: “The only slight issue is parking and traffic flow in the area at times, but it’s great that it’s free to park for up to two hours at the Yelverton Roundabout.”
Ochre Hair Lounge can be found close by, alongside The Rock Inn and various independent enterprises at The Rock Complex on Dousland Road, merely a brief stroll from the neighbouring shops.
Debra Dewinne was enjoying lunch at another flourishing establishment in the same location, Scarlet’s Kitchen. Debra relocated to the area several years ago and commended the local bus service, while noting that traffic congestion can occasionally be problematic in Yelverton.
She remarked: “The car park is always full”, adding: “but it’s a sign that the shops are well supported here”.
Despite comprising a modest cluster of shops and businesses, the area is undeniably flourishing; practically everything one requires can be obtained at Yelverton Roundabout, in my estimation.
I also spoke with parish councillor and resident Alastair Cunningham, who serves as an Independent Councillor on West Devon Borough Council for Buckland Monachorum Ward.
Discussing parking, planning applications and traffic concerns, he explained: “Our parish council meetings are open to anyone local, if people have any issues or problems they’d like to discuss, they can come along.”
Details of these meetings are posted on the noticeboard next to the red telephone box, Cllr Alastair highlighted.
Cllr Alastair remarked: “It’s a good area to live in, there’s a lot of community and the village halls and businesses are thriving here. The people and the shops are great, people tend to pick up their litter here, but we also have volunteer litter pickers.
“The butchers transformed the area and we’re really lucky to have the community we’ve got in Yelverton. It’s a unique and traditional area.”
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