Escaping the Fringe crowds in Edinburgh

Fearing Fringe fatigue? Here are five lesser-known spots for escaping the hustle and bustle, chosen by Lonely Planet Scotland writer (and BCG Pro member) Joe Reaney.

The Edinburgh Fringe is an extraordinary event, but it can also be an overwhelming one. The sheer mass of humanity that descends on the city during August means that everybody (from jaded performers to eager punters to vexed locals) could do with the odd afternoon off.

You can always join the crowds climbing Arthur’s Seat, picnicking in the Meadows or strolling around the Royal Botanic Garden. But if you’re after real Fringe respite, here are five quieter, alternative escapes in and around Edinburgh – from hidden villages to al fresco art galleries.

Duddingston Village

If asked a few years ago, I would have advised Fringegoers to take a break in Dean Village, a collection of charming mill houses that line the Water of Leith. But, unlike most people at the Fringe, it has managed to become TikTok famous – which means it’s no longer the away-from-it-all escape it once was. So consider another, equally quaint Edinburgh village…

Tucked away on the southeast side of Holyrood Park, Duddingston Village has the three key ingredients that every Scottish village should: a loch, a church and a pub. The former, imaginatively called Duddingston Loch, is a bird sanctuary, home to everything from herons to sparrowhawks. In August, you’ll probably only see ducks and swans, but it’s still a tranquil escape – so pick out a bench in Dr Neil’s Garden on the north shore to soak up the serenity.

Just behind the garden lies Duddingston Kirk, built more than 900 years ago but with an unusual 19th century addition: a gatehouse-watchtower built to catch body snatchers. And behind there is the Sheep Heid Inn, opened in the mid-1300s and probably Scotland’s oldest pub. Its medieval skittle alley was a favourite haunt of Mary, Queen of Shots… er, Scots… and you can still book a game. Do it now, before the influencers descend – time is TikToking!

North Berwick

Scotland’s great irony is that it has some of the world’s best beaches, along with some of its worst beach weather. Naturally, as soon as there’s a sniff of sun in August, all of Edinburgh flocks to nearby Portobello Beach. But why take a sweaty, 30-minute bus ride to a bustling city beach when you can take a leisurely 30-minute train ride to a magnificent coastal resort?

North Berwick is hardly an unknown quantity, but the sheer length of its two sandy beaches – West Bay and Milsey Bay – means it never feels busy. It’s also home to the phenomenal Lobster Shack (granted, they often have a pop-up in Edinburgh during the Fringe, but it’s no match for shell-cracking on the harbourside) and the family-friendly Scottish Seabird Centre.

For those who prefer coastal walks to sunbathing, North Berwick is a great jumping off point. Hike an hour eastwards to Tantallon Castle, a romantic ruin looking out at the chalky-white Bass Rock (fun fact: it isn’t chalk, but bird shit). Or head westwards to Aberlady Bay Nature Reserve, with its beautiful coastal trail through scrublands, sand dunes and salt marshes. It’s a bit of a trek from North Berwick to Aberlady – set aside half a day, including some stops at sandy bays and world-famous golf courses – but there’s a direct bus back to Princes Street.

Blackford Hill

No trip to Edinburgh is complete without hiking up Arthur’s Seat. At least, that’s what a lot of people think (particularly since Leo and Ambika did it), which is why it’s always rammed in August. Feel superior by skipping Arthur’s Seat and opting for a more niche hilltop viewpoint.

Blackford Hill sits a couple of miles south of the Old Town, so hop on a bus from George IV Bridge to the Royal Observatory stop, then head up Observatory Road until you get to… you guessed it… the Royal Observatory. This Victorian stargazing spot isn’t open in the summer, but stick to the path and in no time you’ll find yourself arriving at the hill’s peak. From here, there are sweeping views across Edinburgh – including to the chump-covered Arthur’s Seat.

After soaking up the scenery, head down the other way to walk back via lovely Morningside. That way, you can stop by one of Edinburgh’s greatest hidden oddities: the Wild West Town.

Union Canal

We’ve already mentioned the Water of Leith. It’s delightful: the king of Edinburgh waterways. But for a quieter option during the height of festival time, consider the Union Canal instead.

Opened more than 200 years ago, the canal stretches around 30 miles from Edinburgh in the east to Falkirk in the west. Join it at Lochrin Basin, a 10-minute walk from the Meadows, then choose your mode of transport: bike, foot or boat. Cyclists can tackle the whole route to Falkirk in about 2.5 hours, rewarding themselves with a look around the Falkirk Wheel and The Kelpies, before catching a train back to Edinburgh Waverley. Walkers can take it a bit easier, with a leisurely, leafy stroll along the canal to Colinton (about 1.5 hours), then a bus back into town. And boaters can simply sit back and sip beers on a private canalboat cruise.

Jupiter Artland

Located in the West End, Edinburgh’s superb Modern art galleries already offer relief from Fringe throngs, particularly compared to the overcrowded National Gallery in Princes Street Gardens. But for world-class art with even more room to breathe, head out to Jupiter Artland.

Just a 40-minute bus ride from the centre, this landscaped sculpture park feels like a whole other world. You can wander the grounds for hours, taking in permanent outdoor artworks by the likes of Antony Gormley, Tracey Emin and Anish Kapoor, plus temporary exhibits galore. Cash-strapped performers should note that entry costs £13 and there’s a strict no-picnics policy – so either eat your Meal Deal beforehand or prepare to pay for posh on-site café fare.

Joe Reaney is a travel and comedy writer. He authored the Edinburgh chapter of the new Lonely Planet Scotland guidebook, and co-wrote the short comic play Someone’s Sitting There, part of this year’s Big Bite-Size Breakfast Show at Pleasance Courtyard.