GO NZ: Auckland holidays – Kawau Island

Kawau has a rich history and geography to explore, writes Mel Homer

It’s dark.

12-year-old Sam is at the helm, battling to keep the boat on course. Her dad has been knocked unconscious. Can Sam and her mum sail their boat, the Aratika, through the stormy night and deliver their family safely to Kawau? Can they?

Spoiler alert, yes they can, and if you recognise the story, you’ll know that they do. It was after reading Tessa Duder’s iconic novel, Night Race to Kawau, as a child, that the island really began to intrigue me.

Kawau is one of the largest islands in the Hauraki Gulf. It nestles just under Tawharanui Regional Park and from the air it looks as if it’s folding over on itself, divided almost in half by the drowned valley of Bon Accord Harbour. At its closest point, Kawau is a mere 1.5km from the mainland, but the ferry trip from Sandspit is about 7 nautical miles (13km) and takes about 30 minutes, slightly longer on a rough day. There are about 80 permanent residents on the island, but the numbers swell at weekends with many holiday homes lying empty during the week.

What makes this bush-clad island so special? Well, to quote the iconic Aussie movie The Castle, “it’s just the vibe of it”. Kawau has no proper roads, minimal vehicles, no supermarkets, a boat club and one mansion. Life revolves around the water. When you go to Kawau, it feels like the clock winds back a few decades and you step into a simpler time. It’s a place where childhood memories of long hot summer days at the family bach, roaming the island, only returning home when tummies rumble, are still spoken about with delight by people who won’t see 50 again. Kawau is worthy of a visit; for dinner, for the day, or even for a week. There’s not much to do and that’s the absolute joy of it.

What to do

A visit to Mansion House Bay is a must.

Protected from the prevailing Sou’wester, it’s a glorious little bay at the entrance to Bon Accord harbour, easily accessible by ferry with a cafe, public toilets and a large lawn area, perfect for playing cricket.

There are public barbecues to use, and if you are lucky you may find a discarded peacock feather to take home, as the birds roam the lawn surrounding Governor Grey’s mansion and aren’t remotely concerned by the human day-trippers.

If you’re staying the night on board a boat in the bay you’ll hear those peacocks calling to each other at dusk and dawn. Be warned, they sound like your best friend at 1am when she thinks she’s really good at karaoke.

Related articles

Take a stroll through Mansion House

The house was originally built for the manager of the copper mine on Kawau. Governor Grey bought it in 1862, immediately upgrading it and making it fancy enough for him and his friends. He then set about creating a menagerie of exotic animals, importing peacocks and kookaburras, monkeys, antelopes and zebras. He supposedly used the zebras to pull his coach when he took guests out for afternoon jaunts. The mansion went through a variety of owners; at one stage in the 60s and 70s, DB Breweries leased it and put in a pool.

Many old salts from around this time remember boats struggling to hold anchor in the bay, as the bottom was apparently so thick with beer bottles the anchors just slipped right off.

Now a heritage building administered by the Department of Conservation, entry to Mansion House is $4 for adults, $2 for children and it offers a unique look into how the rich spent their weekends 150 years ago.

Walk

Many of the island’s walks start in Mansion House Bay, and none are too taxing. Tracks are wide, and don’t be surprised if wallabies crash across your path. They’re shy creatures, but have managed to just about give me a heart attack on one or two occasions. There is an old cemetery to explore, and the walk over the hill to Coppermine Bay and a visit to the old copper mine ruins is a must.

Check the DoC website for details and printable maps as some tracks are closed for maintenance.

Cruise

One of the best ways to see Kawau is by water, and if you want to hear stories about the people and the history, take the Royal Mail Run Cruise. It’s the largest mail run by water in the Southern Hemisphere, delivering mail and supplies to more than 75 wharves and jetties. It leaves Sandspit at 10.30am daily, and includes a stop for a picnic or barbecue at Mansion House Bay.

Snorkel and kayak

This spot is only accessible by private boat or water taxi, but it’s worth the trip. Moturekareka Island is 5.5km from Bon Accord Harbour and the wreck of the 300-foot three-masted ship Rewa lies in the shallows of the bay. At high tide you can snorkel and kayak right inside it. It’s a great place to take children snorkelling but just watch out for the sharp bits and the oysters on the hull.

There are various stories about how the ship ended up here, but all agree that Charlie Hanson, who became somewhat of a hermit and lived on Moturekareka for 20 years, bought the ship with the plan to scuttle it across the bay in 1930. Some say it was to create a breakwater, some say it was to stop people visiting the island. There are also stories that he was planning on circumventing the gambling laws of the time and turning it into a casino. The scuttling didn’t go according to plan and the boat listed on such an angle that it was good for nothing. Whatever the truth, it’s a great story, and the wreck will impress the kids.

Where to stay

Most accommodation is private home rental, and most houses are accessible by private jetty. Lidgard House in Smelting House Bay sleeps eight, is owned by RNZYS and is available to both members and non-members for rental. You’d be hard-pressed to find a better view to wake up to, and it’s a convenient one-minute walk from the Kawau Boating Club/pub. The large lawn can also be hired for functions.

The Beach House, on the waterfront in Vivian Bay, offers boutique accommodation. Step out of your room directly on to the sand of one of the nicest beaches on the island. It’s pricey, so if the budget won’t stretch to staying the night, you can always enjoy a meal or drink on the deck at the restaurant. Or try to convince your boss to hold your next (small) conference there.

Where to eat

Mansion House Cafe offers standard fare. Try the Devonshire teas, but watch out for the cheeky wekas if you drop any food. They don’t understand the 10-second rule.

The Beach House, Vivian Bay, is for when you’re pushing the boat out. High-end dining, with a great deck to enjoy a long lunch on.
Bon Accord Bar and Bistro/Kawau Boating Club is a friendly place to eat or have a drink and watch the sunset, with tables right on the dock, and a sunset bar offering woodfired pizzas to the west. There is also a small shop in the KBC, and showers and washing machines are free for members, or about $5 for non-members. (Anyone is welcome to join the club)

How to get there

Ferries run five times per day from Sandspit, which is about a 50-minute drive north of central Auckland. Secure car parks are available. Tickets cost $58 return per adult and $34 per child.

Water Taxis offer flexible timing and are available to take you from downtown Auckland and Sandspit, or you could fly in with Auckland Seaplanes from $325.

CHECKLIST: KAWAU ISLAND

DETAILS
kawauisland.org